Prague

Prague was the second stop of four on the trip I took over winter break this past year, and my knowledge of the city was limited to Kafka and some tidbits from a fall of communism class that my roommate took in college.  It ended up being a really magical experience and one of my favorite cities in Europe.  If you find yourself away from home for Christmas, Prague will make you feel like you’ve just walked into a fairy tale book and there’s mistletoe hanging everywhere and there’s lots of cinnamon sugar drenched circular pastries to eat and sausage and beer, and then some castles and lights like you wouldn’t believe.

I’ve never been more in awe of the beauty of a city than I was in Prague, and I oscillated between disbelief and exhilaration.  Old Town Square is home to the astrological clock and the Church of Our Lady before Tyn, a gorgeous Gothic style church topped with black spires.  If these weren’t enough, there was a huge Christmas tree bedecked with raining lights that was breathtaking at night. 

Heading northwest towards the Vlatva River, you cross the St. Charles Bridge, where you first take in the St. Vitus Cathedral and the Prague Castle set on a hill.  For around 150 Czech crowns (about 5€), you can climb to the top of the St. Vitus Cathedral tower and have an absolutely spectacular view of Prague from on high. 

There’s also the popular and colorful John Lennon Wall, and a Kafka museum right along the river.  Just walking along the riverbank provides plenty of lovely surprises, sculptures ranging from the beautifully delicate to the austerely surreal.  The streets are narrow and winding, the buildings short and colorful. 

The food and beer are also excellent.  Prague is pretty cheap overall, so you get a lot of bang for your buck.  About 28 Czech crowns equal 1 euro, so you have to get used to the conversion, but you’ll be surprised at what you get.  I was a big fan of the Staropramen beer, and Pilsner Urquel is also a common and good pilsner, and this is coming from someone who normally turns his nose up at pilsners. 

Thanks to a recommendation from a friend, I had an excellent meal at U Fleku, a very traditional bier-hall style Czech restaurant.  They’ve been brewing a delicious dark beer there since the 1500s, and it’s the only thing on tap.  I had a roasted pig knuckle, served with mustard and pickled peppers, and loved it.  Ghoulash is also another typical Czech dish that’s rich and hearty. 

On the sweeter side of things, I became slightly obsessed with trdelnik, a pastry made of leavened dough that’s wrapped around a spit and cooked over low coals until slightly crispy and brown and then topped with cinnamon and sugar. 

I took the train from Berlin and arrived in Prague in the early evening.  I stayed at the Madhouse Prague and had a wonderful time.  It’s definitely a party hostel, but in a relaxed and inclusive way.  Looking back and after having stayed in more hostels, it’s the best experience I’ve had.  Everyone was very friendly and open, from the staff to the other guests.

There was always a group activity each night, and they took you to lots of cool places in Prague and made sure you had a good time.  (If you’re looking to dance, I highly recommend checking out Chapeau Rouge). They also cooked us dinner for Christmas Eve and Christmas, and we had a white elephant gift exchange.  Being away from friends and family on Christmas was a little hard, but we had our own little family for those few days. 

I spent four days in Prague and didn’t want to leave when I had to leave.  It was, and still is, one of the most amazing cities I’ve had the pleasure of visiting.  I’ve been to some beautiful places in the last year, but Prague is on another level.  I highly recommend that you go, and I know that I’ll be back very soon.